RECEIVING EGGS, INCUBATION & FEEDING FRY B.K.A. Information pamphlet No.2 October 1965
In the beginning it is advised that the novice Killikeeper start off with Epiplatys, Aplocheilus or Rivulus species as their eggs are more tolerant of water conditions ( that is ) the amount of hardness or softness, acidity or alkalinity contained therein. Also the fry of these species, on hatching are of a reasonable size to be caught in a teaspoon for transferring to other containers and will grow easily if not over crowded.
PREPARATION OF WATER When ordering eggs the water conditions for the fish selected can be obtained from the breeder, but generally information of DH-pH is included with the eggs or can be obtained from an information pamphlet on the species. If in doubt use rainwater at 72 degrees.
RECEIVING EGGS Eggs are generally transported in small glass tubes, plastic bottles or small plastic bags insulated in polystyrene. In fact any agent acting as insulation to prevent heat loss during transportation. Eggs also come in various stages of development with some species sent in water. Others such as Nothobranchius and Cynolebias travel in peat, damp moss or nylon without water.
Advantages can then be obtained with the longer incubation period of these eggs, i.e. sending eggs abroad, as our members often despatch eggs all over the world giving an estimated hatching date in most cases.
INCUBATION & STORAGE OF EGGS Killies we term wet storage, generally take 12 to 14 days to hatch and comprise of Epiplatys, Rivulus (21 days), Aplocheilus and some Aphyosemions. There are however some Aphyosemions which take 28 days in dry storage, and some species taking 6 months to one year in dry storage. Our members should send this information and state if the eggs are to be kept in water or dry stored in peat.
When peat or peat fibre is used it should be well boiled to remove excess acid which can harm the eggs that will be stored in the peat. Moss peats can be used most suitable would be Fisons, Irish Moss Peat and some filter moss from Aquarist shops.
CONTAINERS FOR HATCHING When eggs are received, they should be transferred to trays, sandwich boxes or margarine tubs, non toxic of cause, about 12 x 5 x 5 cm. close fitting lids prevent cold and evaporation. Water should be 3cm. deep and kept about 70-75 degrees. Embryo developement will slow and may stop at higher or lower temperatures. Keep containers out of direct light and in the shade.
TRANSFERRING FRY & FEEDING Upon hatching most fry will accept microworms or newly hatched brine shrimp, but in hatching trays ( tubs ) great care must be taken not to overfeed and thereby pollute the water.
From the small containers fry may be moved after five days to a tank somewhat larger, but again temperature and water should match to eliminate losses. Depth of water at this stage can be 17cm. a few small snails can now be added to help keep the tank clean.